A photographer’s view of Cuba at a crossroads


For months, the United States has been waging what it describes as a “most strain marketing campaign” towards Cuba, blocking oil imports to the island, levying criminal charges towards a former chief and squeezing the already fragile financial system with new sanctions.

The Trump administration has made no secret of its finish aim: the collapse of Cuba’s Communist authorities and the daybreak of a brand new period of political and financial liberalization.

About This Story

This story was supported by the Pulitzer Center.

“It’s failing like by no means earlier than,” President Trump stated of Cuba in a speech to the United Nations General Assembly final week. “It will fall.”

Roendris Delfino, 24, picks a guava close to his dwelling in Baracoa.

And but, regardless of a crisis of energy outages, extreme gas shortages and dramatic value spikes, life in Cuba goes on.

Photographer Lisette Poole González not too long ago set out on a highway journey throughout the island to doc this consequential second.

Over two weeks, she traveled between Havana within the west and Baracoa, a metropolis on the japanese fringe of the island. She toured distant provinces hardly ever visited by transnational journalists lately due to authorities restrictions and the problem of procuring gas.

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A bridge

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A horse pulling a carriage passes a church in Baracoa, on Cuba's eastern tip.

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An altar

1. The longest bridge in Cuba is mostly void of traffic. Fuel shortages mean fewer cars on the road. 2. A horse pulling a carriage passes a church in Baracoa, on Cuba’s eastern tip. 3. An altar in the home of a practitioner of an African diasporic religion.

She encountered beaches typically teeming with tourists that were spookily empty, and fishermen unable to work because they lacked gasoline to go to sea.

Public transportation has largely ground to a halt, and the repeated collapse of the national power grid plunges the entire island into darkness for days at a time. Even on a good day, most Cubans receive just a few hours of electricity. Water shortages are common.

Poole González captured resilience in the face of hardship: A man showering outside in a rainstorm. Horses pulling people in carriages. Teenagers pushing children on a carousel that stopped turning long ago.

Four men fix a fishing net to catch food for the day in Baracoa.

Four men fix a net to catch fish for the day in Baracoa, a coastal city about 540 miles east of the capital of Havana.

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women gathered

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a woman stands in the ocean up to her knees as two children stand on the shore

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a fisherman

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Children at a park

1. In Baracoa, people gather outside to take advantage of natural light amid near-constant power outages. Yislena Cobas Martínez, 19, and Mari Duran, 26, were among them. 2. Yugala Labaniño Morales, 52, makes an offering to the ocean goddess Yemayá in Baracoa. 3. Fisherman Ibrahin Borges, 60, says he hasn’t worked in two months due to fuel shortages. 4. Kids play at a park in Sagua la Grande, a city in central Cuba, although many rides are in disrepair.

But she also showed people engaged in more typical activities: Working out. Attending church. Releasing Yoruba offerings into the gentle waves of the Caribbean sea.

She often trained her lens on youth — members of a generation born decades after Fidel Castro toppled Cuba’s right-wing dictatorship in 1959, turning the island into a global symbol of leftist resistance and beginning one of the world’s longest enduring experiments in state-run socialism.

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The home of Fidel Castro

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Fidel Castro's family

1. The childhood home of Fidel Castro in Birán, a rural village in an eastern Cuba, is now a historic site and museum. 2. At Fidel Castro’s childhood home, a local historian shows a family photo with the bearded Castro in attendance at his sister’s wedding.

These young people have come of age at a time of heightened government repression and the prolonged economic stagnation caused by U.S. sanctions and mismanagement by Cuba’s leaders. Access to the internet has widened their perspective, and many told Poole González that they dream of joining the exodus of more than 1 million Cubans who have left the island in recent years.

The trip prompted personal reflections for Poole González, who was born in the U.S. to a mother who departed Cuba with her family a decade after the revolution. Homes that her grandfather constructed in the city of Matanzas still stand.

“I think often about my family and what life would have been for us if they had never left,” she said.

Dayan Ernesto Rojas, 23, trains for MMA in Holguin.

Dayan Ernesto Rojas, 23, trains for mixed martial arts at the Loma de la Cruz, a panoramic vista point and historic landmark in Holguín.

In rural Holguín province, about 420 miles east of Havana, she visited Castro’s childhood home, a rambling wooden farmhouse that is now a national monument and museum. There were no visitors.

Nearly seven decades after Castro’s revolution, the legacy of his ambitious project hangs in the balance. Among Cubans, there is a sense — and a hope — that some kind of change is on the horizon. But what it will mean for them remains to be seen.

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People singing.

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A woman mends a dress.

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A woman waits for a bus.

1. People sing at a youth event at the Ríos de Agua Viva Christian church in Baracoa. 2. Choreographer Yovanys Galano Domínguez mends a dress for a dancer for a performance to honor the anniversary of a revolutionary battle. 3. Elyann Gonzalez Rodríguez, 20, center, waits for a bus in Isabela de Sagua, for a visit to the doctor’s office.

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Elianet Cabrera Ramírez, 21, waits for a collective taxi in  Holguín, with her son, Alan Manuel, 2, and Marlon Antonio Jara, 23.

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Laundry dries outside of a home along the northern highway in Cuba.

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A truck passes this Soviet-style building in Moa, an industrial city on Cuba's northeast coast.

1. Elianet Cabrera Ramirez, 21, waits for a collective taxi in Holguín, with her son, Alan Manuel, 2, and Marlon Antonio Jara, 23. 2. Laundry dries outside of a home along the northern highway in Cuba. 3. A truck passes this Soviet-style building in Moa, an industrial city on Cuba’s northeast coast.

Overlooking the town of El Cobre in southeastern Cuba.

Overlooking the town of El Cobre in southeastern Cuba. People come to a cathedral located on this hill to honor Our Lady of Charity, the patron saint of Cuba.



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