Infacet the Italian Factories Turning Raw Fibers Into Gentle Cashmere for Falconeri

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Nestled within the northern Italian countryside, brushing shoulders with the Alps, are Falconeri’s two cashmere factories in Biella and Avio. There, the 26-year-old Italian trend home oversees almost each stage of its manufacturing course of. This thorough oversight is intentional, because the time-honored craftsmanship attribute of Falconeri’s cashmere clothes doubles because the antithesis of quick trend.

“Falconeri believes that trendy luxurious is outlined by authenticity, distinctive craftsmanship, versatility and longevity,” Gianni Forlini, chief industry officer of Oniverse U.S., tells Fashionista over e-mail. “From the collection of cashmere in Mongolia to the specialised experience of the groups in Biella and Avio, each stage displays the model’s dedication to the standard of pure supplies and the enduring worth of Italian textile know-how.”

Falconeri, which joined Oniverse Group (the mother or father firm of Calzedonia and Intimissimi) in 2009, begins its cashmere journey in Mongolia, the place it sources between 600,000 and 700,000 kg of uncooked cashmere fiber every year. Obtained by combing the gentle and delicate “quilt” undercoat of Hircus goats, the uncooked fibers then arrive in Biella, a historic textile district, the place all of Falconeri’s cashmere is produced. There, greater than 57 specialised staff oversee a number of manufacturing levels spanning high quality management, dyeing, mixing, spinning, winding and twisting. Of word, the spinning course of utilized in Falconeri’s Biella manufacturing facility has remained largely unchanged for greater than 80 years.

“Biella is internationally acknowledged for its centuries-old textile heritage and extremely specialised experience in processing premium pure fibers,” Forlini says. “The information developed and handed down by generations makes it a great atmosphere for reworking uncooked Mongolian cashmere into refined yarn whereas preserving the fiber’s pure softness, size and energy.”

Each cashmere lot (about 1,000 kg) is examined for consistency, regularity and energy, along with being sorted into shades of white, gentle grey and brown. The fibers are dyed to suit Falconeri’s colour palette, then combined inside temperature-controlled containers with water and a mineral-based oil to assist protect their size and integrity. About per week later, the fibers enter the spinning stage to scrub and detangle the uncooked materials. The cashmere might be carded for softer yarns present in Falconeri’s Ultrasoft Cashmere, or combed for finer yarns as seen in its Ultrafine Cashmere.

Finally, the cashmere is prepared for winding — utilizing optical sensors to determine and take away imperfections, after which twisting — twirling particular person strands collectively for stronger yarn. The fibers then head to Falconeri’s second manufacturing facility in Avio, which sits on the foot of the Dolomites.

This is the place all of Falconeri’s items are assembled; roughly 7,000 clothes are completed every day. First, every yarn is evaluated for colour consistency, measurement accuracy and pilling efficiency to make sure cohesion. Shima Seiki knitting machines flip yarn into separate garment sections (a sleeve right here, a again there), leaving expert technicians to assemble every bit by hand. Once assembled, last checks embody washing and ending processes to spice up softness. At Avio, it takes greater than an hour to finish one Falconeri garment.

“This shut integration [between Biella and Avio] permits Falconeri to mix Italian craftsmanship and textile experience with superior manufacturing know-how, whereas sustaining constant requirements throughout each assortment,” Forlini says.

Atop the Avio manufacturing facility sits Falconeri’s type division, the place the group designs its womenswear and menswear collections. Pattern making, prototyping, product improvement and garment building all occur beneath the Avio headquarters’ roof, which helps streamline collections. Falconeri’s new Fall 2026 knitwear will “steadiness timeless magnificence with trendy relevance,” per the model. Designs are impressed by the pure planet, explored by earthy hues of brown and burgundy in addition to wealthy textures. Looking forward, Falconeri’s future collections will pivot to extra genderless capsules.

Falconeri is more and more emphasizing its Ultrafine Cashmere assortment, which is constructed from two single strands of combed and twisted cashmere. Unlike carded cashmere’s softer texture, combing ensures a extra sturdy yarn that resists pilling. The end result? A light-weight cashmere (therefore its “ultrafine” classification) that can also be thermoregulating, which means it helps preserve a balanced temperature whatever the season. “This versatility challenges the normal notion of cashmere as a fabric reserved solely for chilly climate,” Forlini provides.

While overseeing almost each stage of manufacturing offers Falconeri a aggressive edge within the knitwear market, this uncommon degree of management additionally poses its personal problems. “The problem lies within the degree of coordination and specialised experience that this mannequin requires,” Forlini says. “Cashmere is an exceptionally delicate pure fiber, and each stage have to be rigorously managed to protect its size, softness, energy and consistency.” In apply, Falconeri seeks out expert staff whereas persevering with to put money into revolutionary analysis to make sure its high quality requirements are met.

Since launching in 2000, Falconeri has taken its signature Italian craftsmanship international. Today, it operates greater than 200 boutiques throughout 22 international locations, and goals to handle eight stores within the U.S. by the top of the yr. Despite this transnational development, Falconeri’s ethos stays unchanged: “refined, versatile and made to be worn and appreciated over time,” per Forlini.

Disclosure: Falconeri paid for Fashionista’s journey and lodging to report this story.

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