Croatia on wheels: the great Adriatic motorhome route

Travelling by motorhome lets you move at the pace of the landscape and stop in places that would probably never make it onto a conventional itinerary. We set off from Rovinj, in the north of the Istrian peninsula, heading for Dubrovnik at the southernmost tip of the country. Along the way you pass a succession of historic towns, national parks, fishing villages, fortresses and islands, with the Adriatic as a constant backdrop.

But travelling Croatia on four wheels is not always straightforward. The coastal road is, in places, narrow and winding. And you cannot park the motorhome just anywhere: you have to rely on campsites and authorised areas, which are sometimes a long way from the historic centres and, on occasions, charge eye-watering prices.

In high season, especially in July and August, the problem only gets worse. That is why spring, early summer or autumn can be a better time to set off on this route.

Istria, Croatia’s most Italian side

The journey begins in Rovinj, one of Istria’s must-visit towns. Its historic centre of narrow, cobbled streets stands on what was once an island and is dominated by the church of St Euphemia. Colourful facades, the harbour and the small islands scattered just off the coast make the town one of the most recognisable sights on the Croatian Adriatic.

Further south lies Pula, at the southern tip of Istria. The city combines crystal-clear waters with one of Croatia’s greatest Roman legacies. Pula Arena, built in the first century AD, is one of the six largest surviving Roman amphitheatres in the world. Today its stands host concerts, festivals and shows, weaving antiquity into contemporary cultural life.

A tour of Pula also takes in the Arch of the Sergii on the main street, the Gate of Hercules and the Kaštel fortress. This 17th-century Venetian castle stands on a hilltop and offers sweeping views over the harbour and the city’s rooftops.

Istria stands apart from the rest of the Croatian coast. The heart-shaped peninsula is divided between Croatia, Slovenia and Italy and retains a strong Italian influence. Its green hills, vineyards, olive groves, forests and medieval hill towns have earned it the nickname ‘the Tuscany of the Adriatic’. Inland, hilltop towns such as Motovun command the views. However, the lack of suitable facilities for motorhomes forced us to leave it off our itinerary.

From the elegance of Opatija to the lakes of Plitvice

After covering much of Istria, our next stop was Opatija, very different from the rest of the coast. Here grand villas, historic hotels and gardens dominate, all steeped in Austro-Hungarian elegance. For decades it was one of the favourite retreats of the Austro-Hungarian aristocracy, drawn by its spas and mild climate.

The Lungomare, a seafront promenade of around ten kilometres, runs along the coast past villas, small coves and crystal-clear waters. The best way to enjoy it is to stroll slowly and stop in the various little nooks for a swim. It is also worth continuing as far as Volosko, a charming old fishing village.

From Opatija you can continue south along the coastal road beneath the Velebit mountains, in one of the most spectacular stretches of the journey. In our case we chose the motorway to reach Nin, near Zadar. There the scenery changes once again.

The compact historic centre of Nin sits on a tiny island surrounded by lagoons. The town preserves some of the oldest traces of Croatian history and its 9th-century Church of the Holy Cross is one of its main landmarks. It is traditionally known as the smallest cathedral in the world. Nin is also known for its sandy beaches, therapeutic mud and salt pans.

In Zadar, motorhomes have a harder time finding somewhere to park, but the visit is well worth the effort. Amid Roman and medieval remains, the seafront concentrates two of its main attractions: the Sea Organ, which turns the movement of the waves into sound through pipes installed beneath the stone steps, and the Greeting to the Sun, a circle of solar panels that lights up at dusk.

Sunset is Zadar’s calling card. The phrase attributed to Alfred Hitchcock, who described it as the most beautiful in the world, has become part of the city’s tourist lore. From here we left the blue of the Adriatic behind for a day to plunge into the greenery of Plitvice Lakes National Park. Its 16 lakes, arranged in tiers at different levels and linked by rivers and waterfalls, form one of Croatia’s most breathtaking natural landscapes. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the park is the perfect counterpoint to the coast.

You explore it along footpaths and wooden boardwalks, with electric boats and internal vehicles used on some routes. The great waterfall, Veliki Slap, rises to about 78 metres and is the highest in Croatia. Although the turquoise water and the heat may tempt you in, swimming in the lakes is forbidden.

Šibenik, Trogir and the heart of Dalmatia

Back on the coast we reach Šibenik, a city of white stone, alleyways, staircases and small squares. St James’s Cathedral, a World Heritage Site, was built entirely of stone and features an unusual frieze of 71 sculpted human heads, each one different. About 50 kilometres further on lies Trogir, a small island town that feels like Dalmatia in miniature.

The best thing to do is to lose yourself in its narrow stone streets before continuing to Split, the urban heart of the region. Split grew up around the vast palace of the Emperor Diocletian, built more than 1,700 years ago. Today its ancient walls, passageways and chambers form a living city centre where homes, shops, restaurants and cafe terraces all rub shoulders.

Its harbour is also one of the main gateways to the Adriatic islands, with ferries and catamarans to Brač, Hvar, Šolta and Vis. In high season passenger traffic is frantic and ticket prices can be steep. Croatia has more than 1,200 islands, although only around 60 are inhabited. On our trip we visited Korčula, Lopud and Lokrum, the latter just off Dubrovnik’s old town and known for its small saltwater lake, the Dead Sea.

The Makarska Riviera and the Pelješac peninsula

Leaving Split, the road once again hugs the Adriatic and one of the most scenic sections of the journey begins: the Makarska Riviera. On one side lies the sea; on the other, the sheer Biokovo mountains. The distance between mountain and coast is minimal, and the bends offer some of the finest viewpoints on the road to Dubrovnik. Before reaching the walled city, we turn off towards the Pelješac peninsula.

Ston is one of its big surprises: a small town protected by a wall that climbs up the hillside, considered one of the most impressive defensive systems in Europe. Mali Ston Bay is famous for its oysters. Eating them freshly opened, raw and with a squeeze of lemon is one of the region’s must-try food experiences.

After a stop at Prapratno beach, we continued to Orebić to board a boat to the island of Korčula. Its old town is laid out like a fishbone, a design intended to encourage air circulation and protect the streets from the winds. Korčula claims to be the birthplace of Marco Polo and his figure appears all over the town. Walls, towers and stone buildings recall centuries of Venetian rule.

Before leaving Pelješac, Žuljana offers a quieter reward: crystal-clear waters, mountains and coves with a distinctly Mediterranean feel. One useful tip for enjoying the sea: Croatian beaches are, with few exceptions, pebbly rather than sandy. It is worth bringing mats or airbeds, as locals do, and not forgetting water shoes.

Dubrovnik, the grand finale

The road to Dubrovnik marks the transition from a laid-back Croatia to its main tourist hotspot. After one last bend, the walled city comes into view, one of the most iconic sights on the Adriatic.

In high season thousands of visitors throng Stradun, the main thoroughfare, stopping at every corner to take photos. The city walls, cathedral and narrow lanes of the old town can be seen in a day, although spending three days lets you explore at a gentler pace and add a boat trip to one of the islands. A good option is to explore Dubrovnik at sunset, when many day-trippers have already left.

From Rovinj to Dubrovnik, Croatia changes face time and again. Istria brings its Italian heritage; Dalmatia, its stone-built cities and islands; Plitvice, its forests and waterfalls; and Dubrovnik, the great historical stage facing the sea. That variety, packed into a relatively compact coastline, explains why Croatia now competes with Europe’s heavyweight tourist destinations and still offers far more than just sun and sea.